General Dog Questions
- What are the reddish brown areas under my dog's eyes and how can I remove them?
- Why do my dog's ears smell?
- Why does my dog lick me?
- Why are my dog's eyes cloudy?
- What can I do about my dog's car sickness?
- My dog's toenail broke, what can I do?
- What causes dogs to have seizures?
- What is a staph infection on my dog?
- What are fatty tumors on my dog?
- Why has my dog's nose turned pink?
- How good is my dog's hearing?
- Why does my dog eat grass so much?
- Why do my dog's teeth chatter when he gets excited?
- Are rawhide chews safe for my dog?
- Should I give my dog milk?
- Is it OK for my dog to drink out of the swimming pool?
- Why does my dog eat his and other dogs poop?
- Why is my dog's skin infection back?
- Does my older dog have to anesthetized for a teeth cleaning?
- Will eating cat food hurt my dog?
- Should my dog eat carrots?
- My middle age pet has lumps on his skin, why?
- What is a Hot Spot?
- My dog seems to be losing his hearing, is this normal?
- Should I shave my furry dog in the summer heat?
- Are some dog breeds really hypoallergenic for people with allergies?
- What is the best way to collect a urine sample from my dog?
- What can I do about the skin on my dog's elbows?
- How far should I walk my dog?
- How can I make giving my dog's insulin shot easier?
- How often can I bathe my dog?
- When can I take my puppy to the groomer?
- How can I stop my puppy from urinating when she gets excited?
Q: What are the reddish brown areas under my dog's eyes and how can I remove them?
A: Reddish or brownish discoloration around a white dog's eyes and nose is quite common and normal. It's caused by porphyrinsdpigments found naturally in dogs' tears and saliva, as well as in other body fluids.
Unfortunately, these stains are hard to remove. There are several grooming products available to whiten pet fur; they may help somewhat. You also can ask your pup's groomer what she uses to keep fur white. Bathing your dog's face regularly may help as well. Most likely none of these options will remove the stains completely; they're simply part of having a beautiful white dog.
Q: Why do my dog's ears smell?
A: Smelly ears are a clear sign of an ongoing ear infection problem. Dogs with floppy ears are notorious for getting very chronic ear infections. Regular cleaning with veterinary approved cleaners can help, but often antibiotics are also needed. When pets continually get bad ear infections despite good at-home care and veterinary medications, a special surgery to open up the ear canals and allow more air flow is an option. It's best to first get an accurate diagnosis and appropriate medications and cleaning supplies before considering any other alternatives.
Q: Why does my dog lick me?
A: Dogs lick for a lot of reasons. Licking is a submissive social signal, first of all, allowing dogs to show deference to dominant "pack members." Puppies lick to solicit solid food from their mothers when they're weaned, so a young dog may lick to request its dinner. Some dogs lick as a substitute for puppy mouthing behavior. They've been trained not to put their teeth on people, so they lick to occupy their mouths. Licking may be a sign of affection, your dog's way of showing you that he's enjoying spending time cuddled on the couch with you. Or, he may just like the taste of your soap!
Though it's usually harmless, licking can be a problem if carried to an extreme. Sometimes dogs can lick compulsively or as a response to stress or boredom. Obsessive dogs that lick themselves non-stop can lick their fur off and even injure their skin. This is a behavioral problem that may require veterinary intervention. If you're worried that your dog's licking is unusual, contact us.
Q: Why are my dog's eyes cloudy?
A: Your dog's cloudy eyes could be cataracts or it could be a normal aging process of the lens of the eye known as nuclear sclerosis. Nuclear sclerosis causes the lens to refract light. It's like looking into a dirty fish tank - you can see, but not clearly. It is best to schedule an exam to determine the problem.
Q: What can I do about my dog's car sickness?
A: Motion sickness usually begins very shortly after starting the car ride. The dog will begin to drool and then vomit. It's not serious, but certainly not something that we like to clean up!
To solve the problem, first try acclimating the dog to car rides. Do this by simply putting him in the car for a few minutes each day without going anywhere. Then try just going down the driveway and back, and the next day going around the block. Gradually build up the distance and time the dog rides in the car. Sometimes this will help to decrease the dog's anxiety over riding in the car and may help to decrease vomiting.
If that doesn't work, there are some over-the-counter medications you can try. The medication will need to be given about an hour before the car ride. Ask us for a recommendation as to what drug to try and the dosage for your pet. (Never give any medications to your pet without your veterinarian's advice!) These drugs are very safe, with drowsiness usually the only major side effect. But since your dog isn't driving the car, that shouldn't be a problem!
If over-the-counter drugs don't work, then we may be able to prescribe something a bit stronger.
Q: My dog's toenail broke, what can I do?
A: Broken nails aren't uncommon in dogs, and they generally aren't any more dangerous than a broken toenail is to you. In some cases they can bleed a lot, because the quick - the live tissue inside the base of the nail - can be exposed. If the nail's bleeding, you can put pressure on it with a clean cloth (if your pup will sit still for that). If that doesn't work, you may need to bring your dog in to see us and to get the bleeding stopped.
Your dog's nail should grow out again in a couple of days, but it might cause her some pain until then. You can help her by keeping the nail area clean, so it won't get infected. Wipe her feet when she comes in from outside; you can even clean her foot with hydrogen peroxide if she gets into anything particularly messy. If the nail wasn't completely broken off and there's still a piece of broken nail hanging on, it will probably have to be removed so the nail can heal. If you're not comfortable cutting it off yourself, we can do it.
The most important thing to watch will be the skin at the base of her nail. If that skin turns red or swells in the next couple of weeks, or if your dog's foot stays sore for more than a few days, contact us.
Q: What causes dogs to have seizures?
A: A seizure is the result of excessive stimulation to parts of the brain that control muscle activity. All people and animals have the potential to seizure. We all have a threshold of stimulation over which we would experience a seizure. For healthy people and animals, it might take trauma to the head to induce this activity. For others, like epileptics (who have lower "thresholds"), it may be sudden noises, the stress of company, or other mild stimulations.
Pressures from brain tumors, hemorrhage or infection can also contribute to a jump over the normal threshold, resulting in seizure activity. So can being deprived of oxygen, as can happen with heart conditions where there is sudden interruption of blood flow to the brain. Exposure to toxic chemicals can also result in seizures.
Any dog that has a seizure should have a complete examination. We will evaluate heart function and general body condition. A complete history is also taken to rule out trauma and toxic exposure.
If the physical examination is normal, blood profiles are generally administered to rule out diseases of the kidneys and liver. If the profile and exam are normal and the dog is under four years of age, epilepsy is generally the diagnosis. Epilepsy is the most common cause of seizures in dogs. Medications may be prescribed for these cases.
Older dogs that have normal lab and exam findings may require more diagnostics, as these dogs can have brain tumors and other conditions.
Q: What is a staph infection on my dog?
A: Unfortunately, staph infections of the skin are very common in dogs. It is the most common bacteria present on the skin of dogs. Often the bacteria are present without any clinical signs, such as lesions.
Usually, there is something that triggers the infection so that the bacteria settles into the pores. Fertilizer, grass seed, pollens or other allergens can act as the trigger, leading to a staph infection. Allergy symptoms may include itchy ears, feet and abdomens. When the skin is inflamed due to allergies, it is more likely to get infected by bacteria such as staph.
We will prescribe an antibiotic to treat the infection and will try to determine the primary cause of the infection, such as an allergy, so that they can treat the allergy, thereby decreasing the risk of infection in the future.
Because the staph infection is usually secondary to the allergy, it is not normally contagious to people. Please contact us if you feel like your pet may have a staph infection.
Q: What are fatty tumors on my dog?
A: These fatty lumps, called lipomas, are very common, painless, and nearly always benign (that is, not cancerous and not life-or health-threatening). They are simply a clump of fat cells that have become concentrated in one location and formed a bump under the skin. They are most common in older dogs, though they can appear on young dogs or even puppies on occasion. There is no need to treat lipomas, though they can be surgically removed if they interfere with your dog's ability to move, sit, or lie comfortable.
If your dog has already been diagnosed with fatty tumors, it's very possible that she will develop more over time. If new lumps develop, you should schedule an appointment with your veterinarian to ensure that they are also lipomas. This can be done through a relatively simple process called a fine-needle aspirate. Your veterinarian will insert a very thin needle into the lump and withdraw a small amount of material much like giving an injection in reverse. The material can then be checked to make sure it is benign fatty tissue.
Q: Why has my dog's nose turned pink?
A: There are numerous conditions that can cause loss of pigment in a dog's nose. Allergies, infections, and immune mediated diseases are the three big groups that could commonly be involved. The best thing to do is to have a thorough physical exam to find out what's behind the change.
Q: How good is my dog's hearing? A: Dogs have a great sense of hearing. In fact, it is their second most developed sense (next to smell). Dogs can hear much sharper than humans. Not only can they detect sounds that are much too faint for humans, but they also can hear sounds pitched at frequencies above or below a human's range. Dogs can hear in the range of 67 HZ to 45 kHZ (compared to a high range of 20 kHZ in humans).
Q: Why does my dog eat grass so much?
A: The cause and effect relationship in animals of eating grass and then vomiting is often questioned. No one has ever proven that dogs are intelligent enough to use grass as a medicinal herb, so those in the medical profession generally believe that dogs eat grass simply because they like the taste of it and that the vomiting just follows.
Therefore, it's unlikely that a dog will eat grass or other plants in the hopes that they will settle its stomach. Be aware, however, that some plants, or grass that has been treated with fertilizer or herbicide, can cause stomach upset or other problems, some of which may be severe. Basically, grass that has been swallowed will act as a mechanical irritant which will cause your pet to vomit, which is generally normal.
Q: Why do my dog's teeth chatter when he gets excited?
A: Teeth chattering isn't all that unusual in dogs. It's most likely just a nervous habit, particularly since your dog only does it when he's excited. You and your veterinarian should check his mouth for any signs of oral disease (swollen or bleeding gums, broken teeth, etc.), but if you don't see any signs of it, the teeth chattering shouldn't be a problem. Just keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't happen more frequently or become more severe.
Q: Are rawhide chews safe for my dog?
A: Rawhide chews are pretty harmless. The problems come when they swallow them whole. They either choke on them, or the rawhide balls up in the stomach and causes gastritis or blockage. We've seen it all. Moderation is the key. One every once in a while is OK, but they shouldn't be included as a regular toy or part of the diet. In addition it's usually best to supervise or at least be nearby when your pet is chewing on any toy.
Q: Should I give my dog milk?
A: This is a very good question! Few dog owners know that most dogs tend to be lactose intolerant. This means that they lack the enzyme beta lactamase, which allows the digestive system to break down the kind of sugar contained in milk.
Dogs that lack this enzyme end up with a lot of undigested sugar in their intestinal tract, which creates a wonderful breeding environment for bacteria. When a lot of bacteria grows in the intestinal tract it can irritate the stomach and intestine and cause vomiting and diarrhea. These are the same problems that occur in lactose-intolerant people.
That being said, while many dogs are lactose intolerant, some are not. Some dogs love the taste of milk and other dairy products and won't have any stomach or intestinal problems when they get some as a treat.
The bottom line is it may be okay to give your dog a small amount of milk if it doesn't cause her any vomiting, diarrhea, or other discomfort. Check with us first to be sure it won't cause your pooch any health problems or interfere with his diet.
Q: Is it OK for my dog to drink out of the swimming pool?
A: The occasional drink of swimming pool water won't hurt most dogs. The concentration of chlorine and other chemicals in the water is low enough that your dogs would have to drink quite a lot for it to be dangerous. People sometimes swallow pool water on accident too, with no serious consequences, so there's no need to worry.
You can keep your pups' trips to the pool to a minimum by making sure they have lots of fresh water both inside and outside and by keeping the pool fenced off or covered when you aren't swimming. You can also watch your dogs for diarrhea, constipation, vomiting, or other signs of stomach problems. If their health and behavior seem fine, then their little chlorine habit is probably not a problem.
Q: Why does my dog eat his and other dogs poop?
A: The technical, more polite name for what you are describing in your dog's behavior is coprophagia. It is a very common problem. Actually in most canines it is a normal behavior. Of course, mothers consume their pups' droppings until they are old enough to get away from the nest to eliminate, but dogs will eat other dogs' feces and even that of other species. It is a little more unusual for them to eat their own, but it still happens.
Assuming other health concerns such as vaccinations and parasite elimination have been taken care of by your veterinarian, and your dog is on a well-balanced diet, then the idea that it comes from a vitamin deficiency can be ruled out.
At this point, your dog's habit of eating feces should be approached from a behavioral perspective. The more a behavior occurs the more likely it will be repeated. That means physically preventing it from happening helps your dog forget about it. Whatever you do, it will take some time to modify the behavior.
That means letting your dog know that it is bad through a loud, firm, scolding voice. You can use this method when your pet sniffs or shows interest in feces. It helps to have your pet on a leash when outside to give you some physical control over movement as well.
Products such as monosodium glutamate (seasoning salt) added to a pet's food makes the feces less desirable. A more direct approach includes putting tobasco or bitter lemon on the feces itself. Some pet owners simply clean the yard every day to remove any temptation.
Q: Why is my dog's skin infection back?
A: Skin diseases in dogs can be frustrating and can take a bit of detective work to both diagnose accurately and treat successfully. In addition to a thorough physical examination it is common to have blood work, skin scrapings, fungal cultures, allergy testing, and skin biopsies done before treatment can be started.
Some skin conditions require four to six weeks of treatment while others need life long management. It is not unusual to find combinations of problems acting together, such as allergies and infection. Getting an accurate diagnosis as soon as possible is the best help you can offer your pet. If a problem clears up and then reoccurs, let your veterinarian know as soon as possible so that there can be appropriate follow-up.
Q: Does my older dog have to anesthetized for a teeth cleaning?
A: Yes, your dog does need to be anesthetized for her teeth to be cleaned properly and safely. We not only needs to polish your dog's teeth, but also need to clean away plaque and tartar under the gum line. In order to do this accurately, we will need to have your dog's mouth open and unmoving for about half an hour, depending on the amount of plaque, tartar, and other problems he finds. For your dog's safety and comfort, she will need to be under general anesthesia--that is, she will be unconscious throughout the procedure.
Though your concern is understandable, there is no need to fear general anesthesia for your canine family member. We know how much you care about your pet, and we have a lot of experience anesthetizing animals.
We will thoroughly examine your furry friend to make sure that she's healthy enough to undergo a cleaning; depending on your dog's age and general physical condition, we may also run blood tests to check for any dangerous heart, kidney, or other conditions. Though there is some risk associated with any medical procedure, modern anesthesia is usually safe, even for older pets. If you have any concerns about the procedure, talk to us about them.
Q: Will eating cat food hurt my dog?
A: Eating cat food probably won't hurt your dog, though it's best that he doesn't eat it all the time. Cats and dogs require different diets. Cats are pure carnivores, meaning they typically eat nothing but meat, while dogs are omnivorous, meaning that they eat some plant materials along with their meat.
Cat diets are made primarily of meat and meat products, so in the long run they can be too rich for dogs and can cause digestive problems. They are also denser in calories than dog diets, so they can lead to obesity in dogs. Because of the additional fat and calories, cat food often tastes better to dogs than dog food does, so you may have to keep an eye on your dog to make sure he doesn't indulge in the kitty kibbles.
By the way, while cat food is generally okay for dogs, dog diets lack essential nutrients that cats need to stay healthy, so cats can't live on dog food. Overall, it's safest to feed your pets the kind of food formulated to be healthiest for their specific species. (Ferrets may be the exception. They are the only pets other than cats that are entirely carnivorous, which is why ferrets can live on cat food.)
Q: Should my dog eat carrots?
A: Carrots are fine, but you need to keep them to less than 10 percent of the total diet. If you give your dogs too many, you could unbalance the diet. Be sure to give them in small pieces or that they are chewed thoroughly to prevent blockages as well.
Q: My middle age pet has lumps on his skin, why?
A: The most common raised bumps in middle-aged to older dogs seem to papillomas, which are caused by a virus. They grow in multiple places on the body as the dog ages and can be a nuisance as they enlarge and stick out, getting caught in combs, clippers, etc.
With any mass, it is most important that you get an accurate diagnosis before any treatment is started, as there are some more harmful tumors that can mimic others. If the masses on your pet are papillomas, they are best removed surgically, as they have a deep stalk that will grow back again if not removed properly. Please contact us to arrange for an examination of these lumps.
Q: What is a Hot Spot?
A: "Hotspot" is a general term used to describe the angry reaction that your pet's skin is displaying. It may also be referred to as "acute moist dermatitis."
Hotspots have many causes, but are usually the result of self trauma and subsequent infection that occurs as your pet tries to relieve himself from a pain or itch. An underlying allergy is most often the cause of the pain or itch. Some breeds are more prone to seasonal allergies, so you may see hotspots at the same time each year.
There are three types of allergies that may lead to hotspots:
- Inhaled allergy (pollens, dust, molds)
- Insect allergy (fleas, bee sting, spider bite)
- Ingested allergy (food)
Please discuss treatment options, which may include thorough cleaning, antibiotics and anti-inflammatory agents, with your veterinarian.
Q: My dog seems to be losing his hearing, is this normal?
A: Unfortunately hearing loss is quite common at age 14. It is neurologic in nature, and there is no treatment for the loss. Hearing aids have been tried in dogs but are not tolerated.
Q: Should I shave my furry dog in the summer heat?
A: You're right to be concerned about your dog's comfort during hot weather. Northern breeds with thick fur like Malamutes and Huskies were developed for cold climates, not the 90 and even 100 degree weather we experience in the summer. However, some hair can be beneficial in hot weather, working to insulate dogs from the heat and shield their skin from the sun. Remember, dogs don't use sweat to cool themselves the way people do, so they don't need to have exposed skin in order to stay cool.
That being said, if a dog has too much hair, the hair can stop being beneficial in hot weather and start retaining too much heat. You may be able to thin the coat out enough by brushing your dog thoroughly and consistently with a wire or "rake" type brush designed for heavy-coated breeds. These brushes can remove some of the fuzzy undercoat layer of fur, sometimes enough to make dogs comfortable in warm weather. If she still seems too hot, shaving won't hurt her a bit. Just be careful to leave an inch or so of fur so that she still has some insulation and protection from sunburn.
Even if your dog is shaved, you'll want to be careful with her when temperatures get really high. Don't leave her in a parked car or leave her outside unsupervised for long periods of time. When she's outdoors, she needs shade and plenty of water. Some people buy the drip-system "mister" hoses used to water plants and set them out for their dogs on hot days.
You can even freeze water bottles full of water and put them where she lies to keep her cool. Always, with any dog watch for signs of heatstroke. If your dog is panting, has a staring or anxious expression, does not obey commands, has warm, dry skin, a high fever, and a rapid heartbeat or is vomiting, lower her body temperature quickly with cool water--either by immersion or by spraying thoroughly with a garden hose--and call us veterinarian immediately.
Q: Are some dog breeds really hypoallergenic for people with allergies?
A: While the allergy issue is certainly a big consideration when choosing a breed, you also need to consider temperament and physical traits when looking at different breeds.
Poodles and Bichons and some of the terriers do rank high on the list of "hypo-allergenic" dogs, but allergies can be very individualized. A breed that may trigger life-threatening reactions in one person may only cause a few sniffles in another individual. If you are allergic to dander and not hair, a poodle may not work at all.
Allergies are not only determined by the type of dog and the person's tolerance, but can be moderated by exposure, frequency of bathing and grooming, etc. Discuss control measures with your physician. Then make a list of breeds that you might be interested in owning. You would probably want to avoid long, heavy-coated breeds that require a lot of grooming unless you are willing to do the grooming yourself or have it done professionally.
Visit a dog show and talk to breeders and people that own the breeds that you are interested in. If possible, pet or play with one breed per show and see how your allergies are. If you can narrow it down to a few different breeds, you may be able to "borrow" a dog from a breeder for a few days to see how you react to it in the home. This may take a while, but will be worth it in the long run.
Q: What is the best way to collect a urine sample from my dog?
A: There are a few different ways to take urine samples, depending on what you need to test for. When veterinarians want to test for certain kinds of bacteria in the urine, they can perform a cystocentesis, which involves inserting a needle directly into the bladder and removing a small amount of urine. This gives the veterinarian a sample of urine that isn't contaminated by any material in the urethra or the outside air. Veterinarians can also insert a catheter into the bladder to get urine samples.
If you're performing a urine test at home, such as a taking glucose level for a diabetic dog, or if you need to collect urine at home to take into the veterinary clinic, you can do it without making a mess or upsetting your dog. Attach a light, thoroughly cleaned container, like an empty margarine tub or an old Styrofoam egg container, to the end of a yardstick. Keep your dog on a leash when you take him out, so he can't get too far away from you.
When he starts to urinate, wait a second or two for impurities to be flushed out, and then slip the container into the urine stream. Pour the urine into a clean jar that seals tightly. You don't need a whole lot of volume for most tests. Five to ten cubic centimeters (less than an eighth of a cup) will usually suffice. Quickly, bring the urine to the hospital and do not bring urine in that has been sitting for more than 12 hours.
Q: What can I do about the skin on my dog's elbows?
A: Callused skin is actually fairly common in dogs. Calluses, thick pads of tough, often hairless skin, are formed when skin repeatedly rubs against rough surfaces, such as concrete in a dog run or scratchy indoor-outdoor carpeting. Calluses don't pose a serious health risk; they mostly just look unsightly and bother some pet owners.
The best treatment for calluses is to protect your dog from abrasive surfaces. Monitor where he sits and lies; put padding down in his favorite sleeping places. If he is confined to an area such as a dog run or a basement for periods during the day, make sure he has a soft, clean, comfortable area to lie down, so he won't lie on the concrete or the hard floor.
Aloe lotion can also soften the calluses and improve the appearance of your dog's skin, but be careful when softening calluses. They develop as a way for the skin to protect itself against damage. If you soften your dog's skin and it keeps coming into contact with rough surfaces, the skin could develop scrapes, sores, or other problems.
Q: How far should I walk my dog?
A: There is not one single right answer to this question. Some dogs will do fine with a two-block walk, while others can go two miles. A good rule of thumb is that the shorter the dog's legs, the less distance he can go. Smaller dogs, like pugs or toys, won't be able to go as far as large dogs, like golden retrievers. A dog's breed is important as well. Short-legged breeds, like bulldogs and daschunds, won't be able to walk as far as breeds with longer-legged builds. The walking environment is also a factor. Hot weather will not only make a dog more prone to overheating, but it can heat cement up enough that it could be painful for your dog's paws. Dogs can also walk farther on dirt trails than on sidewalks or asphalt, because rough concrete can be hard on the pads of their feet.
Your dog's age and general health are important as well. If your dog doesn't usually get much exercise, you won't want to start him off with a three-mile jog. Gradually extend the length of your walks to build his endurance. Arthritis, heart disease, and a number of other health concerns could also affect the length of your walks. If your dog has health problems, discuss how far he can walk and how much exercise he should get with your veterinarian.
In the long run, your best bet is to observe your dog while you're walking. When he starts panting excessively and acts tired, then he's walked far enough. This is also a good way to keep an eye on your dog's health. If he used to go three miles with you and now only walks a few blocks, you should consult your veterinarian. It could be a sign of a health problem.
Q: How can I make giving my dog's insulin shot easier?
A: If there were a way to treat diabetes other than with insulin injections, it would be much easier for a lot of people. Unfortunately, there is no other effective treatment.
Do not give up! This is usually the most difficult time for pet owners. The dog is getting irritable and you are getting a little frustrated.
First, relax. Often when giving injections, we get nervous or agitated and the dog picks up on those emotions. Then, the pet gets edgy and we both get jumpy. So, it helps to start the process by taking a deep breath and thinking positive thoughts.
Second, you need to reward your pet during all of this. For example, putting a dish of the dog's favorite food down while you are administering the insulin injection often helps. Once you get good at the injections, with practice you should be able to give the injection with no more disturbance to your pet than petting it while it's eating. In the meantime, if you must use a muzzle, be sure to give your dog a special treat and breakfast right after administering the shot.
A few other tips: Teach "sit and stay." If your dog can do this, you can teach him to sit still for the injections. If you have not done this yet, it will take longer, but if you're strong and persistent, you may literally save your dog's life. Also, practice "sit and stay" and putting the muzzle on without giving shots. Eventually, your dog will not immediately assume that sitting, eating or wearing a muzzle means he's getting a shot.
If you continue to have problems, consult your veterinarian for advice. Most diabetic pets and their owners become able to deal with the inconvenience of insulin injections, thus adding years more of enjoyable pet-owner companionship.
Q: How often can I bathe my dog?
A: The simplest answer to this question is, whenever he needs it as long as you are using a good, soap-free shampoo. Dogs that spend the most of their time indoors will not need much bathing, while dogs that are outside a lot, romping in the mud and trees (and possibly other smelly things) will need to be bathed more often. Also, some dogs' coats will accumulate grease and oil more quickly than others.
Breeds prone to oily skin and other skin conditions, such as Cocker Spaniels, benefit from regular bathing about every four weeks. Breeds with a thick, double coat, like huskies and chows, only need bathing about three or four times a year. Washing a dog with an undercoat more often than this can make the coat softer and less waterproof and insulating.
In general, you can use your common sense to judge when your dog needs bathing. If you're concerned about causing dry skin, there are moisturizing treatments available, which you rub into your dog's skin after you shampoo him. If your dog seems uncomfortable or shows signs of skin problems, consult your veterinarian.
Q: When can I take my puppy to the groomer?
A: The only problem with taking a puppy to the groomer is that he's exposed to a lot of other dogs, both while being groomed and while in the waiting room. To avoid the possibility of infection, you should wait to have your puppy groomed until he's completed all of his puppy vaccinations.
These are usually finished when a puppy is around four months old. If you have any questions about how to groom your pup or clip his nails on your own until he's old enough to visit a professional groomer, your veterinarian can advise you.
Q: How can I stop my puppy from urinating when she gets excited?
A: The problem of submissive urination is a combination of a physical condition and a behavioral one. The physical component is a lack of tone in the sphincter of her bladder that holds the urine in. It's more common in females due to the shortness of their urethra (the connection between their bladder and the outside). This may improve with age.
The behavioral factor is a contraction of the muscles that empty the bladder when she is placed in a very submissive situation or is very excited. She is probably naturally submissive, which makes these experiences stronger stimulants to her.
There is little we can do about the physical part. There are medications which can increase the tone, but I would not recommend them for a puppy. The best control is dealing with the behavioral aspect. Maturity will lessen her submissiveness, but you must work to ensure she becomes more confident in herself.
Avoid situations where the urination occurs. When you come home, instead of greeting her at the door and making a big deal about the reunion, try to diffuse the situation by ignoring her. Just walk right by her, and let her outside before you acknowledge her. Eventually, she will learn not to become too excited about your returns.
Other situations can be dealt with the same way. When strangers approach her, give her a treat or get her attention some other way to diffuse the excitement or threat of the approach. Consult with your veterinarian on this topic as well.
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